HLP-4667W ghosts, silences, looses controls
Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 2:35 am
I have a Samsung DLP model HLP 4667W, lamp code BP96-00826A(P). It's about 3 years old.
It fires up fine, picture good and sound on, but after a variable time ~ 2-5 minutes, the picture starts to degrade, with fine 'ghosts' appearing both horizontal and vertical, and a general 'fuzzing' of the picture, but the picture still 'moves'. All of the controls cease to operate; the remote has no effect including channel changing, shutdown, source selection, etc., and the buttons on the main body also unresponsive. Sound is lost. The picture gradually but progressively gets worse, transitioning into horizontal streaks, then the screen goes black. At least one fan remains operating, and the lamp remains lit (from light emanating through the light filter). Sometimes, the units shuts itself down, sometimes it remains nominally 'on,' and requires unplugging to reset. (I have heeded your cautions about 'uncommanded shut-down,' and only shut off the power intermittently, to allow the fans to come back on and complete proper cool-down. Sometimes, lights on the front switch end in all three flashing. While I can hear the color wheel spinning down, it is pretty quiet and seems good. I have tried to enter the Service Mode, and done a 'User reset,' but I don't know if that is a 'factory reset.' Since the TV is only responding to commands for a couple of minutes, it really limits how much I can play with the menus, but I did reset to the point, for instance, that it forgot all of our channel presets. I did suspect overheating, because it can generally reset and go again (though the picture OK intervals have been shortening), so I took off the light filter to look in the back and locate fans for inspection. I found the one more exposed (by the computing side), and it works fine, but I haven't found or verified the one associated with the lamp. There is some air movement through the light filter with the unit on, but not very strong at all.
I guess, at this point, I am wondering if there are any other diagnostics I would be wise to run, or if I should just look to replace either the DMD board or the Digital Board? If the digital board is suggested, I will probably try the 'add pressure' fix on the DNIE chip as described elsewhere.
It fires up fine, picture good and sound on, but after a variable time ~ 2-5 minutes, the picture starts to degrade, with fine 'ghosts' appearing both horizontal and vertical, and a general 'fuzzing' of the picture, but the picture still 'moves'. All of the controls cease to operate; the remote has no effect including channel changing, shutdown, source selection, etc., and the buttons on the main body also unresponsive. Sound is lost. The picture gradually but progressively gets worse, transitioning into horizontal streaks, then the screen goes black. At least one fan remains operating, and the lamp remains lit (from light emanating through the light filter). Sometimes, the units shuts itself down, sometimes it remains nominally 'on,' and requires unplugging to reset. (I have heeded your cautions about 'uncommanded shut-down,' and only shut off the power intermittently, to allow the fans to come back on and complete proper cool-down. Sometimes, lights on the front switch end in all three flashing. While I can hear the color wheel spinning down, it is pretty quiet and seems good. I have tried to enter the Service Mode, and done a 'User reset,' but I don't know if that is a 'factory reset.' Since the TV is only responding to commands for a couple of minutes, it really limits how much I can play with the menus, but I did reset to the point, for instance, that it forgot all of our channel presets. I did suspect overheating, because it can generally reset and go again (though the picture OK intervals have been shortening), so I took off the light filter to look in the back and locate fans for inspection. I found the one more exposed (by the computing side), and it works fine, but I haven't found or verified the one associated with the lamp. There is some air movement through the light filter with the unit on, but not very strong at all.
I guess, at this point, I am wondering if there are any other diagnostics I would be wise to run, or if I should just look to replace either the DMD board or the Digital Board? If the digital board is suggested, I will probably try the 'add pressure' fix on the DNIE chip as described elsewhere.