Hello All,
Is there any test i can perform on the ballast board when it is out of the TV? I've been searching but haven't found anything yet. I tested the voltage while it was in the set and I was getting 382V.
My color whell spins, ok
My lamp has continuity, ok
lhlogdge
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grayfox
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Re: Test Ballast Board?
hello,
I have to strongly recommend against testing the ballast since the output for ignition is of around 15 K volts and it can damage your equipment. Do you have a Toshiba television? those are the only DLPs with a continuity in their DC lamps, other brands use an AC lamp that should have no continuity because of an arch gap in the ignition chamber, there might be something wrong with your lamp if it is not a DC lamp or your multimeter is malfunctioning.
I have to strongly recommend against testing the ballast since the output for ignition is of around 15 K volts and it can damage your equipment. Do you have a Toshiba television? those are the only DLPs with a continuity in their DC lamps, other brands use an AC lamp that should have no continuity because of an arch gap in the ignition chamber, there might be something wrong with your lamp if it is not a DC lamp or your multimeter is malfunctioning.
Unit FoxhoundRe: Test Ballast Board?
Pepe,
I have Samsung HLN5065WX. Yes I realize from the Ballast to the lamp is more voltage than my multimeter can handle.
I was wondering if there were any continuity test that I can perform to backup my thoughts of a bas ballast.
The brown and blue wire from CN1 has 382V from the power board. On a side note my original lamp was broken inisde.
Are you telling me testing for continuity across the lamp connections on the lamp are not conclusive?
What do you suggest at this point.
My color wheel does spin also I see the startup spark as well
I have Samsung HLN5065WX. Yes I realize from the Ballast to the lamp is more voltage than my multimeter can handle.
I was wondering if there were any continuity test that I can perform to backup my thoughts of a bas ballast.
The brown and blue wire from CN1 has 382V from the power board. On a side note my original lamp was broken inisde.
Are you telling me testing for continuity across the lamp connections on the lamp are not conclusive?
What do you suggest at this point.
My color wheel does spin also I see the startup spark as well
