Going thru the processes of troubleshooting my HLP4663WX.
Firstly all lights blink.
1) Changed lamp, no change in blinking lights
2) Changed ballast, no change in blinking lights
checked voltage, nada, no voltage
assuming bad power supply? any comments appreciated
The blue switch is in the down position, I have gone through the process of resetting the lamp but how can I tell if I am successful when there is no display?
I think is the lamp timer because according to your manual all the lights blinking means lamp defective, but you've just changed it so it's most probably your lamp timer.
The best "Do It Yourself" site for all types of Displays!
Yeah, I am doing this. Would a bad timer prevent voltage on the ballast? and can the timer be replaced? I did a search and was unable to find a lamp timer for a HLP4663W. Thanks for your input!
the standby light goes off, the lamp light starts blinking, I hear a click from the ballast, then a more feint click, this cycle continues for 10 mins, then all lights begin to blink, I don't get a menu display
Eze311,
Recheck the ballast voltage. You shouldn't here a click noise if there is 0.0V going to the ballast. How are you testing the ballast? You need to remove the back cover of the TV, but use some tape to press the lamp cover door sensor down. Then test the ballast voltage when you press the power button.
Again, the 0V is not making sense. Also, make sure your multimeter is set to the correct voltage type. DC voltage is what you want to test for the input to the ballast. The best way to test to see if your multimeter is set to DC is to test the batteries from your remote.. It should read between 1.2-1.5V DC. The ballast input should read 340-380V DC.
The ballast converts the DC voltage to AC voltage in this case to power the lamp.
If your power supply is bad, you will get less than 340V on that test.
A few things can cause your TV not to power on...
1. Bad Lamp (unlikely in this case)
2. Bad Ballast (unlikely if it has been changed)
3. Bad Color Wheel (check to see if the wheel is spinning at all)
4. Bad DMD Board
5. Bad Power Supply
6. Bad Auxilary Power supply
Thanks for your reply!
There is not a problem with the multimeter, I use it regularly.
What provides voltage to the ballast?
This is a new development, the TV attempts to power up when I plug it in, without pressing the power button, no standby. It cycles for awhile then 3 lights blink.
You suggestions are greatly appreciated
eze311
Looking at the photo you provided ...seems you have your voltmeter reading on the male plug of the balast with the power supply disconected.
In this case you will not get the voltage reading your trying to obtain.
Try reading voltage across the input with the connector attached.
My bet is you have the 340 voltage to the balast if you hear a click. You can also check the 5v to the balast at the small plug (blue wire).
Hope this can still help you.