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[gordonliu]

HL-S5687W. Got about 3.75 years before the bulb went. The problem started when the screen would turn off, and then the lights would flash (indicating a lamp problem). for about 2 weeks, I could simply let the TV sit for a few minutes or disconnect the power cable (obviously after the fans stopped spinning), then turn it back on and it would work (for a while), but it would always eventually turn itself off.

this worked 10-15 times. Every time the amount of time the television would remain on would decrease until it would turn itself off after about 1-2 minutes. The first time I tried, the television remained on for several hours. the 2nd time, for about an hour. the 3-8th times about 30-45 minutes. 8-10th times it lasted about 10 or 15 minutes. the next few attempts either failed or worked for a few minutes.


eventually this stopped working completely and the 3 lights would flash, indicating a bulb failure, no matter how long I left the power disconnected before hand.

I purchased a genuine philips bulb from an Ebay vendor (bulb+ housing, yes its a philips, yes I checked the bulb to make sure it said philips on it)


The television itself was completely disconnected from power for 2 full days before I attempted to install the new bulb (power cable disconnected from the TV, not just "off").


Installed it, put everything back in, and made sure that the blue safety switch was properly depressed. I even had someone try turning it on while I physically held down the switch (held it down AND up) until the set failed.


turned it on:

as soon as the color wheel (I assume) or fan begins to spin a high pitched, rapid beeping emits from the television. No other strange noise is heard (no grinding, no rough whirring, no clicking, no tapping). the whirring noise sounds exactly the same way it did back in 2006 when I bought the television. I am not sure if the whirring I hear is the color wheel or a fan, but there is no apparent "weird" sound other than the beeping

also the normal "turn on" jingle would play at this point (the noise that most/all samsung TVs play when you turn them on)


this beeping continues for about 30 seconds, all the while the green lamp bulb continues to flash


then the set turns itself off (the whirring noise stops, the beeping stops and the green lamp light turns off and the standby light turns on) for about 1 second.

the set then "reboots" and repeats the behavior I just described.

this whole process repeats so that the TV attempts to start itself a total of 3-4 times (turn it on, fail, reboot, fail, reboot, fail, reboot, fail)

when the final failure occurs, the whirring stops again (as well as the beeping) and then all 3 lights begin flashing.



some things to remember:

1) the original fault was never a "sudden" change accompanied by a noise (eg no explosion of the bulb). it was a gradual process

2) no grinding, no rough whirring, etc has ever been noticed. the whirring I hear sounds exactly the same as it always has. Also the Beeping is MOST LIKELY an electronically synthesized noise (it does not sound like a mechanical noise). I could be wrong, but I would be incredibly surprised if something was making that noise by mechanical means (like the color wheel bumping/scraping something).

3) I have an original philips bulb replacement. both the replacement and the original have no visible damage (my point is that the new bulb was probably NOT immediately destroyed)



My assumption is this:

the most likely culprit is either a board issue (ballast or something similar) or the color wheel.



I am obviously going to check the color wheel (I have not yet gotten that far), but I wanted this posted so that it could get exposure while I was taking the next step.



also I searched for "beeping" and everyone who had this problem either did not resolve it, or resolved it without fully describing what they did (or they had other mitigating factors like a noticeable grinding noise or swollen capacitors)

[gordonliu]

Update:


I checked the color wheel. completely fine. though unfortunately, in the process of removing the color wheel assembly, the ribbon connector (which had been crimped on a corner of the metal assembly, and had been fatigued by years of vibration from the 9,000 rpm color wheel) INSTANTLY broke when I lifted the color wheel about 1 CM.


so now I have to replace the color wheel because the ribbon connector broke (yeah, I know, a $80 part all for a single ribbon connector).


I have also, essentially, come to the following conclusions:

1) it is the ballast


2) it is something too expensive to replace



any other input is appreciated

[KimfUp]

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