FixYourDLP.com Forums

Hi everyone. I love this site.

I bought a Samsung DLP, #HLP5063WXIXAA 4 years ago from a large retail store. I bought the 100 percent warranty as well. Of course when it broke they said my warranty expired 2 weeks earlier and I was on my own.

Anyway, I had the bulb replaced one year ago and the set allways would shut off on hot days without making the beeping noise like when I shut it off with the remote and the lamp light would come on. For months now the house has been cooler and that hasn't happened. The other night I hear a very loud "POP" and the set goes B&W with rolling to the left and then a black screen and it shuts down. 10 seconds later I hear a series of very loud hums (Death rattle?) and then nothing.

After reading posts here I suspect that I may need a color wheel, a lamp and a ballast.
However it doesn't sound like I should just replace these without knowing if it's more involved like a board too? I don't think it's worth $700 to $1000 in parts. But $300 I could understand.

DrDragon,
I would recommend you open the back of your TV set. You can pull the lamp out and most likely you will be able to tell if it's broken or not. All the sounds you were hearing is most definitely your color wheel so I would recommend replacing it. In your case I believe for you it's worth checking out the insides of your TV before replacing your lamp ballast and color wheel. I would just start by replacing your color wheel and your lamp if it appears to be broken.

Thank you. I'll take a look inside this weekend and order parts first thing Monday morning.

After removing the bulb and color wheel they are both broken. The wheel had a chunk missing and the bulb is chipped at 2 of the corners.
The bulb is BP96-00826a (small with vent)
However the color wheel has the silver bearing. I looked at http://www.discount-merchant.com/produc ... rwheel.htm and here is the note from the site.

[If you are installing a FDB Bearing (GOLD) Colorwheel, in place of your FAB Bearing (SILVER) Colorwheel you will need to install a jumper ("Shorted") on the DMD Board (Jumper CN810). This jumper is on the BACK SIDE of the DMD Board. Keep in mind that the HOUSING of this colorwheel is NOT INCLUDED. The FDB (Ball Bearing) color wheel and the FAB (Air Bearing) color wheel are NOT INTERCHANGEABLE!]

Does this mean DM would have the correct housing or do I need to search for a silver wheel because they're out of stock at DM.

I found a silver one at partstore.com. Takes about 10 days to get. I'll report back when I install.

DrDragon,
Great glad you found one. It's not wise to switch color wheels. I would advise against it stick with your silver. Good luck and keep me updated!

I will for sure. I just hope by then I can remember how to put it all back together.

Hahaha funny! if you have any trouble just let me know.

Well I installed the color wheel and the lamp. Turned on the set but all I got is a green "lamp light" and a red blinking "Temp Standby" light.

At least there was no smoke poring out or sparks.

DrDragon,
No smoke is a good thing. Make sure you installed the flex cable of the color wheel the right way. Your model is a tricky one one the cable will go into the connector either way! Lot's of people install the cable backwords.

Also, make sure you lamp door cover is on and your TV is back together. The lamp cover door has a switch that senses the door being shut before it allows the set to power on.

Let us know how it goes.

Thank you. You were quite correct when you said the cover was off. Are you watching? LOL.

OK, I put the cover on and before I even turn it on I now get a [flashing] green lamp light.
No other lights. I press the on button and I hear the familiar beeps but the flashing green lamp light stays on.

The color wheel ribbon wire you spoke of was inserted the same as the previos as best I could because there are no markings. So I followed the same direction as the old one. However I wasn't able to make it go in very far. [I just pushed it in.] Is that the right way?

More info. I removed the access panel for the light and held the reset switch manually. Now there is no green lamp light but the red temp standby light comes on. Hmmmm.

Two rounds of clicking then nothing. I ordered a ballast and a temp sensor. If this doesn't work I'll sell what parts I can at a discount.

DrDragon,
Try taking out the color wheel cable and inserting it the other way. See if it makes a difference. You will not damage the set if you do this.

I am not watching you work but I've had so much experience with these TV sets that I pratically have the damn things memorized to a T.

I was re-reading your first post about the poping noise and the hum.. That definately is a color wheel problem as you probably witnessed it shatterd. At rare times your ballast may get damaged when the wheel shatters. Again, the wheel was your first issue and I would double-check the installation. I'd hate for you to throw away a perfectly working TV.

You can keep these sets running for years with a little bit of TLC and beleive me, the picture is just as good as many of the newer LCD/Plasma TV's.

Let us know how it goes.

Hello everybody. After watching many hours of golf yesterday (Masters) on my Samsung HL-R5667W, my TV started making a very loud noise, like a "revving up" and then revving" down, or it would just be "revving". Also a bad vibration from the rear of TV set. The color is distorted also. From what I have read it may be the color wheel??? Does this sound familiar to anyone? The set is almost 4 years old and I have never had a single problem until now.

Thanks!

Dose sound like a color wheel. However I'm not a tech. If you replace one read up on them to get the right one. gold vs silver bearing.

If the lamp went out it wouldn't make that much noise, would it?

Rick,
There are only 3 moving parts inside your TV set that can make that noise.. Fan #1, Fan #2 (lamp cooling fan), and your Color wheel.

The chances of the Color Wheel failing is 5X more than any other moving part.

i would recommend a new color wheel...

Rick,

Its definitely the color wheel.. either its broken or went off-balance so it doesn't spin freely and has some friction to it.
You can remove it and see it visually for the problems.

I had the same issue with a shattered color wheel, but now I have another issues with the new wheel... posted in another thread.. hope someone here can help.

I'm there champa... I'm trying to get to everyones posts guys. Bear with me.. I'm spending more time on this forum than any other just because of the huge demand here. Please do your due diligence of researching and taking the basic diagnositc steps before posting. The more information you give me ahead of time, the faster and better i can diagnose your issues.

I'm here to help!

Ok, seems everyone is convinced it's a color wheel I need to buy. Any recommendations of a reputable web site to buy one from?

Thanks

UPDATE!

I replaced the color wheel, lamp and ballast.....and the dang thing actually works!

However....the red standby temp light remains on even with the set turned off. Any ideas?

rick wrote:Ok, seems everyone is convinced it's a color wheel I need to buy. Any recommendations of a reputable web site to buy one from?

Thanks

I bought from this site and partstore.com when they were out of stock here.

Rick,
I would check Discount-Merchant.com or PartStore... If D-M has it, you will get the same thing but cheaper.

DrDragon,
I'm glad we could help you get your set up and running! I would also read my post here about what OSRAM/Generic can do for you:
http://fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=172

It's amazing how much I get this from people that buy generic bulbs.

ovadoggvo wrote:Rick,
I would check Discount-Merchant.com or PartStore... If D-M has it, you will get the same thing but cheaper.

DrDragon,
I'm glad we could help you get your set up and running! I would also read my post here about what OSRAM/Generic can do for you:
http://fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=172

It's amazing how much I get this from people that buy generic bulbs.

I didn't have or recently buy a generic bulb.

OK, I bought a lamp anyway since mine was 4 yrs. old (figured I would need one soon anyway and I wanted to do my part to stimulate the economy ) When I pulled the old lamp out I notice the fan behind the lamp. There is a plastic "brace" there, right next to where the lamp goes and by the fan. Is this brace suppose to be separated? It does not seem that it has broken but not sure, no jagged edges. Could this be the vibrating sound I am hearing?

Thanks

Is there a reason Discount Lamps has a color wheel for $299 and at PartsStore it's only $139?? Just wondering.

I meant Discount-Merchant.com.

Hi rick.

Could you please post a link to the article you're seeing?

The one I found according to your model number is http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1069249-samsung.htm, and is the whole light engine for $279.99.

I didn't find the colorwheel alone but it would cost around $70.00 according to this link: http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/samsung_bp96-00674a_colorwheel.htm.

For Samsung there are two different kinds of colorwheels, one has a silver bearing and the another one a golden bearing.

Hope this answer your question.

NEhelp,

Here is the link for partstore.com ....
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/S ... r=HLR5667W. $139 plus free shipping.
Is this the same thing that you have at Discount-Merchant for $279 ?

rick wrote:NEhelp,

Here is the link for partstore.com ....
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/S ... r=HLR5667W. $139 plus free shipping.
Is this the same thing that you have at Discount-Merchant for $279 ?

No, is not the same thing, actually they are selling you the bare colorwheel without chassis, that's why the title says "For L3 chassis". It's more expensive than at D-M, but at D-M is out of stock, so it would be the best option

HTH

NEhelp,
Maybe you can help me a question I posted earlier but got no response. When I pulled the old lamp out I notice the fan behind the lamp. There is a plastic "brace" there, right next to where the lamp goes and by the fan. Is this brace suppose to be separated? It does not seem that it has broken but not sure, no jagged edges. Could this be the vibrating sound I am hearing and not a broken color wheel? Is there any other way to know if the color wheel is broken without taking it out? I hate to buy a color wheel and go through all the trouble and then find out its a fan.

Thanks

rick wrote:Hello everybody. After watching many hours of golf yesterday (Masters) on my Samsung HL-R5667W, my TV started making a very loud noise, like a "revving up" and then revving" down, or it would just be "revving". Also a bad vibration from the rear of TV set. The color is distorted also. From what I have read it may be the color wheel??? Does this sound familiar to anyone? The set is almost 4 years old and I have never had a single problem until now.

Thanks!

I've just read your problem rick,

If it was just a fan issue then it wouldn't be any color distortion, so I'm a 90% sure is your color wheel. I don't know anything about a plastic brace, however if this piece is not connected to anything then it has not function there, so you better remove it and see if it works.

HTH.

Well after replacing all of those parts the picture is not that great. I was watching a black and white movie and the areas that are the darker greys are green. And then on a HD newscast the face of the news anchor showed banding. Like instead of lighter and darker areas smoothly transitioning it would be too much contrast.

After replacing a color wheel is it necessary to adjust color? I tried with the sets controls and it didn't help.